We traveled across the whole country of Turkey – North to South - by bus with the plan of crossing into Syria on our way to Lebanon to see an amazing, ancient, misunderstood country.. We heard great things about Syrian people, we read raving reviews about Damascus and Krak des Chevaliers (a fairytale castle).. middle east’s little gem. Most importantly, we read and heard from several sources that we could obtain a visa at the border – no problem. At most we’d have to wait a few hours. SO! We set out – adventure on the horizon and optimism in our eyes – believing Syria would be an unexpected great experience for us. BUT! Soon enough optimism took a quick downward spiral as we arrived at the border. Stamped out of Turkey, standing in no mans land – we were flat out denied a Syrian visa.. No payment, no friendly smile, no plea, nothing was getting us into this country. Apparently, just a month ago, the rules changed for American citizens.. our governments do not get along and the people are penalized. . Americans simply can not get a visa at the border.. Our glimmer of hope was slightly revived when we were told all we had to do was take an hour taxi to another 4 hour bus to the town of Antep and go to the Syrian embassy and get our visa there. OK! So that’s what we did. Tired from 387346 hours of bus travel, deflated from our almost crushed dreams of Syrian travel, thin patience, and low blood sugar… we were hitting our trip low. After spending more time and money and ending up in some random southern Turkish town, our Syrian dreams were finally put to rest when we found out it would take a least a few weeks to get a visa, if at all. Not much else to do but get out of Turkey and move onto Lebanon!
(countryside of east Lebanon, used to be Syria)
With so many highs of the trip we knew we had to have a low somewhere… and the silver lining was 2 days of ultimate rest in an air conditioned room with a nice bed. WE NEEDED IT!
We flew from Antep to Istanbul to Beirut with a layover in Cairo.. putting us in 4 airports in 3 countries in one day.
I’m not sure from where or why we had high expectations for Lebanon. We heard great reviews about Beirut, we were looking forward to a modern, “happening” city, with charm and lot’s of options.. Maybe it was us; arriving without a place to stay nor a person we knew, maybe we missed something, but we found Beirut to be extremely annoying, with limited options of places to stay, eat, etc for a cheap/moderate price.. we found no bang for our buck and felt we were getting ripped off at every corner.. not cheap! After spending $100 on 4 beers, a plate of hummus and a tabouleh salad (sore subject) we needed to get the hell out of Beirut quick. We headed north the next morning to Byblos where there are some ruins right on the coast.. kinda cool.. kinda whatever.. again, with no options we ended up staying at a “4 star” hotel with no hot water, no helpful service, and expensive internet laundry service (two things we needed very badly at the time).. The saving grace was a great bed and english movie channels. We gathered a lovely spread of produce from the market across the street and had one of our classic “bed picnics” as we drank beer, lounged in the AC, and laughed our way to sleep watching stupid English humor. (at the Byblos ruins)
Again, feeling the need to get out of where we were, we got a taxi to drive us over the mountains heading east to Baalbek through a countryside and area that used to be Syria. Beautiful mountain scenery and a feeling of finally experiencing a bit of ease and excitement in Lebanon, we weaved our way around and up and down, past herds of sheep and goats, tent villages and 3 military check points, finally ending up in Baalbek. Baalbek is the home to some of the most impressive Roman ruins (these romans were EVRYWHERE! creating little “rome” everywhere they went) as well as the birthplace of the Hezbollah party.
(Baalbek ruins)
What an interesting and amazing dynamic/vibe. Military on every corner – a bit unnerving -, the Hezbollah museum – fucking creepy – all nesteled in amongst the powerful dignified stature of the largest roman columns built in the world.. We happened to be there at the same time as a festival at the ruins and got tickets to a jazz show in the middle of “Jupitors Temple”. EPIC
So in 4 days we did Lebanon, leaving with a bit of “hmmmmm” about the whole country.. taking into account that they only got out of war in 2006.. the country definitely screams war torn with its lack of tourist infrastructure let alone it’s own infrastructure, and dilapidated buildings still scarred with bullet holes.. This scene doesn’t quite match up with the hoards of brand-new supped up cars and very well dressed youth on their way to bars and clubs that cost at least $200 just to sit down. The repeating dichotomous image we saw in Beirut pretty much sums it up.. Large, shiny billboards of Gucci, armani, etc.. directly in front of – if not there to cover – the skeleton of a building covered in dust that once was, or was never... We did find the Lebanese people to be really lovely. Everyone we met (besides the few hotel and restaurant workers who we felt ripped off by) was extremely nice, helpful, and good-looking! Oh yeah and the FOOD!